Katy Boden Textiles Designer
Tory Burch Spring 2014 by Erica in Collections

Inspired by Romy Schneider’s character in La Piscine, Tory Burch mixed the easy glamour of the French Riviera in the late 1960s with elements from her own garden in Southampton. The retro flora and hedgerow prints in crisp whites and greens as fresh as cut grass were perfect for spring. The cropped trousers and tailored suiting in shimmery silver silk were elegant and chic. And belt bags and leather trellis basket totes?! So sweet.

(Source: honestlywtf.com)

12:44 am  •  15 September 2013
SPRING 2014 MENSWEAR Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten opens a career retrospective at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris next year, and, as part of the prep, he’s been poking around in the museum’s archives. Which is how he became absorbed by all the “pretty, but strange” flower prints he came across, even more so because they were elements of menswear over the centuries. That fit right in with Van Noten’s project of late—the mutation of men’s classics with the silken finery of feminine fabrics. So he got thinking about the men who’d worn flowers. They were an eclectic coachload: Louis Seize, Oscar Wilde, Jean Cocteau, Jimi Hendrix…. Not just dandies, either. Van Noten included modern-day surf rats. “From one step to another step,” he mused. “That’s exactly how the exhibition is taking shape, too.”

It may be a season of dark flowers in the world of menswear, but Van Noten edged his peers with a collection that thoroughly explored every possible permutation of the idea. Prints were derived from eighteenth-century rococo, scans of freshly cut blooms or Hawaiian gothic, and combined in unlikely silhouettes and fabrications. There was a delicate dévoré shirt, for instance, tucked into lustrous moiré trousers, then wrapped in a robe of purest kitsch. And a damask coat wrapping surf shorts and something sheer and floral.

Van Noten agreed there was defiance in the almost total domination of the flowers, or as he put it, “Seeing how far you can go with transparent shirts and dévoré and still be able to say, ‘Hey man, this is men’s clothes.’” There will be plenty of men who disagree with the designer on that point, but working on the retrospective for a year has probably made him more defiant, more about “the things I love, the things I come back to.” This season, that meant the return of bullion embroidery, as a muted but rich decoration on waistbands, belts, a big military-ish coat. Wear it with floral surf shorts and you’d nail the spirit of the collection to the floor.

But eclecticism has always been Van Noten’s calling card. The live soundtrack today was provided by drummer Cindy Blackman Santana. The designer wanted one instrument and, given how dark he felt his palette was, drums seemed suitably aggressive. And he thought the dark flowers would benefit from a gold backdrop—to match the bullion, too—so Santana drummed and the models walked against huge electric sheets of Mylar, spotlighted so they looked like water shimmering in sunlight. It was another typically gorgeous effect from a fashion showman who excels at them.


10:54 pm  •  8 August 2013
Rodarte Fall/Winter 2013-14


Rodarte Fall/Winter 2013-14 Runway Show | NYFW New York Fashion Week | FashionTV
- Fashion TV

5:45 am  •  30 July 2013
Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung charted a new path for himself this season. Citing his long training at Bill Balsas, he said he wanted to get back to “elegant, chic, refined clothes…American sportswear, but with couture ideals.” Throughout the past couple of years, he has put an emphasis on intense, engineered prints and artful but complicated construction techniques, with results that have sometimes erred on the fussy side. For Resort, he streamlined things. It was most apparent in the eveningwear. Most of the gowns followed long, athletic lines, with color-blocking details adding to the sporty sensibility. The finale, in red, white, and black silk duchesse satin, was crying out for Cate Blanchett or another statuesque red-carpet superstar.

But, as Gurung pointed out, there was a whole lot more than event dresses here—sleeveless sheaths, of course (the most interesting in an acid-yellow wrap tuxedo style), but also other categories he’s only dabbled in before, like knit separates. Everybody’s got a waffle-knit sweater this season; Gurung sliced his at the waistband to give it a sleek fit. Another look worth calling out was the navy and white shirtdress with short sleeves that folded open to show off the shoulders—sportswear, but with a special touch, just as promised.


1:06 am  •  28 July 2013
Erdem Resort 2014

In contemporary fashion lingo, Resort conjures up an image of a leisured, slightly luxe getaway. For Erdem, it evoked something much closer to home this season. He found inspiration in his mother’s old holiday snaps, where the getaway was more likely to be to a bed-and-breakfast in Blackpool: net curtains, Formica floors, “naff” fifties patterns on upholstery and wallpaper. It was a curiously downbeat launchpad for a designer whose clothes are more typically the embodiment of dressed-up precision, and yet it seemed to free Erdem to forge on into bold new territory, for him at least. “Fall was so nipped and tense,” he said of his last collection. Here, that tension evaporated in the refreshingly slouchy simplicity of baggy pants paired with an oversize tee, or a utilitarian boilersuit, or an oversize jumper worn with a skirt abbreviated at mid-thigh. Erdem’s princess had been infected by an air of untucked tomboyishness. “That dual girl-boy element just felt right,” he said, even if his bemused tone suggested he wasn’t quite sure why.

But the “why” was quite clear in the effervescent essence of the clothes themselves. If Blackpool in the fifties was on his mind, it was, mercifully, another time and place that came through: The big loose shirt over slacks, with pointy bowed little flats, could have been Babe Paley on holiday…or Gidget on the beach. Of course, this being Erdem, that shirt came in an exquisite gazar, just like the baggy pants were in silk cady, the tee organza, the boilersuit washed satin, and the miniskirt a buttery leather.

But the ghost of Blackpool artfully hovered. The transparency of lace and organza was, in Erdem’s mind, suggestive of the sheer curtains of the small hotels where his mum might have stayed on her holidays. Likewise, the jacquards echoed the patterns of wallpaper and seaside tearoom tablecloths. In that light, a sinister green tweed felt like a weird take on uptight fifties matrons. Such unpromising reference points should by rights add up to something dour, even grim, but Erdem is, after all, a designer who repeatedly insists that nothing is as right as when it’s “wrong,” so it wasn’t really surprising when he claimed the downbeat as experimental threads in a liberated new outlook. And it was ultimately less “wrongness” than an absolutely upbeat rightness that defined a floral-print cotton shift whose streamlined freshness actually evoked the gorgeous Jean Shrimpton in her earliest photographs with David Bailey, just before the sixties really started to swing. Nicholas Kirkwood’s flats and Linda Farrow’s slightly sci-fi sunglasses beautifully elaborated on the mood.


1:02 am  •  28 July 2013

Paul & Joe
October 2, 2012 | PARIS, PAUL & JOE, S/S 2013, WOMEN

Paris: Relaxed and casual, Sophie Albou-Mechaly’s spring collection for Paul & Joe had all the right elements for a perfect vacation wardrobe. Comfortable denim and cotton were made into roomy bottoms and easy button-ups, and eyelets added a touch of femininity. The highlights of the show were prints and patterns depicting Hawaiian hibiscus flowers and tropical birds. Created in soothing tones of mint, peach, baby blue and dove grey and mixed with classic stripes, the prints stood out without taking over. Color blocked sweaters, anoraks and boyfriend blazers rounded out this sweet offering, which is sure to appeal to the Juniors who follow the label. –Joanna Manganaro

Silhouette: Roomy / Long + languid

Color: White / Peach / Mint / Pale blue / Silver / Navy / Black / Cream / Bright yellow / Saturated orange

Key Items: Walking shorts / Tapered pants / Boyfriend blazers / Printed button-ups / Parrot intarsia sweater

Materials: Cotton shirtings / Denim / Cotton twill / Slick suitings / Metallic foil / Patterned cotton suitings / Nylon / Medium-gauge yarns for raschel knits / Lamé / Eyelet

Print + Pattern: Hibiscus / Parrots / Colorful squares / Swirling florals / Stripes / Dots / Color blocking / Placed florals

Details + Trim: Embroidery / Pleats / Utility details / High slits

Accessories + Footwear: Round sunglasses / Medium belts / Structured bags / Strappy sandals / Pointy-toe pumps


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Louis Vuitton

1:01 am  •  21 July 2013